How to condition Red Wing and Thorogood boots

Why oil-tanned leather needs conditioning

Oil-tanned leather is made with oils worked into the hide. Over time, water, dirt, sweat, concrete and heat pull those oils out. When the leather dries, it gets stiff, lighter in color, and starts to crack at the flex points across the toe. Conditioning puts oils back in so the leather stays supple and resists water.

Some Red Wing Heritage and Thorogood leathers have different finishes, such as roughout or nubuck, which need different care. Check the leather type on your boot before choosing a product.

Products that suit these boots

Red Wing sells its own boot oil, conditioner and mink oil for its leathers. If you are looking for a Thorogood mink oil paste, any reputable mink oil paste works the same way. Test any product on a small, hidden spot first to see how much it darkens the leather.

Step by step conditioning

1. 1

   Remove the laces.

2. 2

   Brush off dirt with a horsehair or stiff brush, including the welt seam.

3. 3

   If the boots are dirty, clean them first. See how to clean work boots.

4. 4

   Let the boots dry fully at room temperature. Never condition wet leather that has been heated dry.

5. 5

   Apply a thin coat of conditioner with a soft cloth or your fingers, working it into creases and seams.

6. 6

   Leave it to absorb for several hours or overnight.

7. 7

   Wipe off any excess and buff lightly with a clean cloth or brush.

8. 8

   Relace and wear. For extra water resistance, add a wax protectant after conditioning.

How often to condition

There is no fixed schedule. Condition when the leather looks dry or lighter, feels stiff, or water stops beading on it. As a rough guide, daily work in wet, muddy or concrete conditions calls for conditioning every few weeks. Indoor or casual wear may only need it a few times a year.

Over-conditioning can make leather too soft and reduce support, so do not oil boots every day.

• After heavy exposure to water, mud, salt or concrete.
• When the color looks faded or chalky.
• When creases across the toe look dry or start to crack.
• Before a winter season, along with waterproofing.

Break in and new boots

New Red Wing and Thorogood boots are usually ready to wear and do not need conditioning before the first use. Some people apply a light coat of conditioner early to help the leather soften, but heavy oiling to speed up break in can over-soften the leather. Wear them in gradually instead. See how to break in Red Wing boots and how to break in work boots.

Mistakes to avoid

• Drying boots with heat before conditioning. Heat cracks leather. Air dry instead, see how to dry work boots.
• Using oils or mink oil on roughout or nubuck if you want to keep the original look.
• Applying thick coats. Thin coats absorb better.
• Ignoring the welt seam, where cracks often start.
• Leaving boots caked in concrete or salt for days.

Note.Some oils can affect waterproof membranes or glue less than others. Follow the boot maker's care instructions for boots with waterproof liners.

Resoling and long term care

Both brands make many Goodyear welted boots that can be resoled. Keeping the upper conditioned is what makes a resole worthwhile, since a cracked upper cannot be saved by a new sole. Read can work boots be resoled, and compare the brands in Thorogood vs Red Wing.

See Red Wing work boots →

Frequently asked questions

Does mink oil ruin Red Wing boots? It does not ruin them, but it usually darkens the leather and can soften it more than a conditioner. Use thin coats and test first.

Can I use the same products on Thorogood and Red Wing boots? Yes, for similar oil-tanned full-grain leathers. Check the leather type and follow each brand's care guidance.

Should I condition waterproof boots? Yes, the leather still needs oils. Use products that do not clog the leather, and follow the boot maker's advice.

Does conditioning make boots waterproof? It improves water resistance. A boot is only waterproof if it has a waterproof membrane or construction. See how to waterproof leather work boots.